Taking on the restoration of an M1 Garand isn't just about sprucing up an old World War 2 rifle.
It's about reviving a literal piece of American history with both care and purpose…and, admittedly, a fair bit of patience too.
It doesn’t matter whether your M1 came out of grandpa’s closet or the Civilian Marksmanship Program. Bringing one back to good working order is going to need a bit more than just elbow grease and a YouTube video or two.
That’s because you’re dealing with a war-proven firearm that’s got some age on it, and naturally, it deserves a respectful touch.
Get to Know What You’re Working With
Before taking apart anything or even thinking about refinishing your M1, it’s probably a good idea to understand exactly what you’ve got in the first place.
Not all Garands, which are named after their inventor John Garand, are created equal. Some are more collectible than others. That information can steer you toward a respectful restoration instead of a full-blown refurb”
Check the Receiver
Start with the markings on the heel of the receiver. That's where the manufacturer's name and serial number live.
The most common manufacturers of the M1 Garand are:
• Springfield Armory (by far the most prolific)
• Winchester Repeating Arms
• Harrington & Richardson (HRA)
• International Harvester (IHC)
Once you’ve got the serial number, go ahead and plug it into an online M1 Garand serial number database. That’ll tell you the year (and sometimes even the month) it rolled off the line.
A rifle made in mid-1944 is a whole different story than one from 1955!
Original Parts vs Mixmasters
During and after WWII, Garands were often arsenal-rebuilt. That means many rifles are a Frankenstein mix of parts from different manufacturers.
It doesn’t necessarily hurt function, but for collectors, “correct” rifles (with all parts from the same maker and time period) are worth significantly more.
For a shooter, a ‘mixmaster’ (so to say) is just fine. But if you're really chasing after historical accuracy, you should start checking part numbers and drawing codes.
They're usually stamped discreetly on components like the op rod, bolt, and trigger group.
Inspect It Like Your Life Depends On It
Because if you’re planning to shoot this rifle, safety is non-negotiable. Garands were built tough, but some of these rifles have been sitting around for decades. Age, rust, and poor storage can turn a reliable rifle into a dangerous paperweight.
Here are the key inspection points that you’re going to want to look at:
• Barrel
• Look for deep pitting, corrosion, or bulging. Use a bore light or a white patch to check the interior. Measure throat erosion (TE) and muzzle wear (MW) if you have the gauges.
• Operating Rod
• Shouldn’t be bent or cracked at the handle. Op rods take a beating over time.
• Bolt Lugs
• These are the locking points that the bolt closed during firing. If they’re chipped, rounded, or show uneven wear, replace the bolt.
• Gas Cylinder & Plug
• Look for excessive carbon buildup or looseness. The gas cylinder should not rotate freely on the barrel.
• Trigger Group
• Make sure that the safety works, the hammer doesn’t follow the bolt, and the trigger resets properly.
If you’re unsure, have a qualified gunsmith familiar with the Garand give it a once-over. It’s worth the peace of mind, at the very least.
Clean Out the Years of Gunk
Chances are, your Garand’s got a few decades of grease, carbon, and maybe cosmoline packed into every nook and cranny.
This step is where patience really pays off.
Cleaning supplies that you’ll want to acquire for your M1 include:
• Mineral spirits or odorless solvent (for metal parts)
• Nylon and brass brushes
• Lint-free rags or microfiber cloths
• Toothpicks or dental picks (for crevices)
• Boiling water (great for melting cosmoline out of small parts)
Don’t soak your parts too long or get aggressive with steel wool, unless you think it’s absolutely necessary.
Remember, you’re not trying to strip away finish or damage surfaces…just get rid of the grime!
Stock Work…Restore, Don’t Redo!
The stock is where many restorations go too far. Original walnut M1 Garand stocks were finished with boiled linseed oil, and not with a high-gloss polyurethane or a shiny lacquer.
A proper restoration should bring out the natural beauty of the wood, and not make it look like a bowling alley floor!
Cleaning the Stock
Start with a simple wipe down using warm water and a mild soap. Avoid soaking the wood or using harsh chemicals like acetone, unless you're absolutely sure the wood can take it.
To remove embedded grime and oil, one trick you can try is to use a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water or even a bit of denatured alcohol on a rag (gently, mind you).
Lifting Dents and Bumps
Wrap a wet cloth around a dent and apply a household iron on low. The steam rehydrates the crushed fibers and lifts the wood.
Don’t expect miracles on deep gouges, but this trick works wonders on compression marks.
Re-Oiling the Stock
Apply a light coat of boiled linseed oil or pure tung oil. Rub it in with a cloth or your hand, let it sit for 15 minutes, and then wipe off the excess. Repeat once every 24 hours for a few days until the finish looks healthy (not glossy; just a deep and warm glow).
What to Do About the Metal Finish
Most Garands show natural signs of honest use, like wear on high spots, shiny patches on the receiver, or even some surface rust.
The original finish was manganese phosphate, which is better known as parkerizing. Don’t strip it unless you really have to.
Leave It Alone If You Can
If the finish is 70% intact or better, clean it gently and then go ahead and apply a light coat of CLP or gun oil. That little bit of patina that’s there is a part of its story!
Consider Re-Parking Only If Necessary
If the metal’s pitted or rusted, or if someone has already refinished it badly, then a professional parkerizing job might be worth it. Just have it done by someone who knows M1s. It’s not the same as bluing or cerakoting.
Put It All Back Together and Function Check
Reassembling a Garand is pretty straightforward, but don’t rush it. Make sure everything fits smoothly and isn’t binding or forcing anything.
Now it’s time for a function check:
• Check the bolt operation. It should cycle smoothly, with no sticking
• Engage and disengage the safety without slop.
• The trigger needs a clean break with a full reset
• Insert a clip (dummy rounds if possible) and then check the feeding, ejecting, and, yes, that famous ping
Preserving Your M1
Restoring an M1 Garand isn’t about perfection. It’s about preservation, and specifically by bringing a storied rifle back to life in a way that is respectful of its past while also making sure that it’s safe and shootable for the future.
Do it right, and you’ve got something that’ll outlast you and be worth passing down. So take your time. Ask questions. Learn its quirks. And when you finally take it to the range and hear that first ping, you’ll know you did it right.
About the Author
Sam Jacobs is the lead writer and chief historian with Ammo.com and is the driving intellectual force behind the content in the Resistance Library. He is proud to see his work name-checked in places like Bloomberg, USA Today and National Review, but he is far prouder to see his work republished on websites like ZeroHedge, Lew Rockwell and Sons of Liberty Media. You can catch him on Quora and Parler. How many firearms does Sam own, and what’s his everyday carry? That’s between him and the NSA.
